Puglia Day 3: Ostuni
The White City That Rose from the Earth
Ostuni is, in a word, stunning. Known as La Città Bianca—the White City—it gave me a taste of what I can only imagine Greece might be like (don’t worry, Greece is very much on my ever-growing travel list). Just a scenic 30-minute drive from Monopoli’s old town, Ostuni is home to around 32,000 people in winter… but come summer, that number swells to an astonishing 200,000.
There’s something mysterious about the way Ostuni appears. One minute, you’re cruising through flat olive groves—ocean to your left, groves to your right—and then suddenly, this whitewashed city erupts out of the ground like a volcano frozen in time. Perched atop the hills of the lower Murgia, it commands attention, like it’s been waiting centuries to show you something.
At the highest points, Gothic cathedrals reach for the sky. And as you meander through the tightly packed buildings and cobbled alleyways, there really is something for everyone—whether you’re chasing history, food, photos, or just that feeling of being delightfully lost.
But before I get too excited about where to find the best orecchiette, chilliest Aperols, or dreamiest views… let’s zoom out for a moment and ground ourselves in a bit of Ostuni’s backstory.
A Brief History, with a Dash of Mystery
Ostuni has long been known for producing incredibly high-quality olive oil and wine. It’s believed to have been originally built by the Messapi tribe, then destroyed by Hannibal during the Punic Wars, and later rebuilt by the Greeks. (This had me wondering—maybe they painted it white to feel more at home?)
But the real reason for all the white? In the 17th century, a deadly plague swept through town. To disinfect the city, the locals painted every building with a mixture of limestone, dust, and water. It worked. Many believed it was a miracle sent by their patron saint, Sant’Oronzo. To this day, they keep the tradition alive—not for disinfection, but as a way of preserving their history and identity.
As you arrive at Ostuni’s heart, the Piazza della Libertà, you’ll find a tall statue of Sant’Oronzo watching over the town.
While it’s a myth that Ostuni is surrounded by a moat, the city walls were very real—and very effective. Built in the late Middle Ages, they were designed to defend against invaders. When attackers climbed too close, locals would pour boiling oil over the edges to repel them. Only two of the four original entrances still exist.
Now, I don’t know about you, but I treasure my olive oil far too much to throw it over a wall. (Can you imagine?! I’d be down there trying to catch every last drop. Extra virgin only, obviously.)
What to Do (and What Not to Miss)
If you’re like me, your favorite way to explore a small Italian town is to simply wander. Let your feet guide you. Let the city reveal itself. But if you’re someone who likes a little more structure, here are my definite musts:
Visit the Ostuni Cathedral
With its richly painted ceilings and intricate design, this Gothic beauty is a masterpiece—but the real showstopper is the rose window on the facade. It’s the second-largest in Europe and absolutely worth the detour.
Stroll across Arco Scoppa
A 16th-century stone bridge that connects the Bishop’s Palace to the cathedral cloisters. It’s one of Ostuni’s most iconic landmarks—and a total photographers moment waiting to happen.
Find the Famous Blue and Green Door
Just outside Bianca Ostuni restaurant, you’ll spot the door that’s become one of the most photographed in Puglia. It’s charming. It’s whimsical. It’s Ostuni in a nutshell. (This is a must stop photo spot for sure).
Take the Passeggiata delle Mura
This scenic walk traces the perimeter of the old city walls and offers sweeping views of the valley and coastline below. Go early in the morning or at golden hour for that cinematic glow. Bonus: You’ll likely be joined by the town’s unofficial mascots—dozens of adorable cats lounging in doorways, posing like pros, and generally stealing the show. Please say ‘hi’ from me.
Where to Eat (Let’s Be Honest, This Is Why We Travel)
Try the orecchiette
As Puglia’s signature pasta, it's non-negotiable. My vote? Head to Il Posto Affianco for a bowl that feels like a warm hug from a southern Italian grandmother.
Sip and see at Bar Perso
Come for the cocktails, stay for the views. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a long day of getting lost in whitewashed alleys and catching glimpses of the sea.
Ostuni - A Place of Mystery
Ostuni has that rare mix of charm and edge, mystery and light. Whether you’re marveling at medieval arches, sipping spritzes with the locals, or sharing your path with a purring cat—you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into another time entirely.
And once you see it rise up from the horizon, you’ll understand why they call it the White City.
Key Takeaways & Travel Tips:
The White City, for Good Reason: Ostuni’s whitewashed buildings aren’t just beautiful—they’re steeped in history, originally painted with limestone to disinfect the city during a 17th-century plague.
A City That Appears Like Magic: Surrounded by flat olive groves, Ostuni rises dramatically from the landscape like a frozen white volcano—unexpected, cinematic, and breathtaking.
Wander, Then Wonder: Getting lost in the cobbled streets is half the fun. Discover hidden corners, sun-drenched alleyways, and plenty of sleepy cats along the way.
Highlights Not to Miss:
The Ostuni Cathedral and its rose window (the second largest in Europe)
Arco Scoppa—a 16th-century bridge that’s as photogenic as it is historic
The famous blue-and-green door near Bianc Ostuni
Passeggiata delle Mura—a panoramic walk along the city’s old walls
Come Hungry: Puglia’s signature dish, orecchiette, is a must—especially paired with a cocktail at Bar Perso and views to match.
Olive Oil Is Sacred: And no, I would not be throwing it over city walls. Ever. (Historically accurate? Yes. Personally feasible? Absolutely not.)
Lucy’s Little Luxuries in Ostuni:
Three ways to add a little sparkle to your time in the White City:
Dinner with a View at Bar Perso: Elevated cocktails, dreamy lighting, and panoramic views of the valley and sea—this is where you go to sip slowly and stay a little longer.
Orecchiette at Il Posto Affianco: A refined take on a regional classic. Handmade, heartwarming, and served with the kind of detail that makes you close your eyes between bites.
Golden Hour on the Passeggiata delle Mura: Luxury doesn’t always mean expensive. Walk the city’s historic walls as the light softens and the rooftops glow—an effortlessly elegant way to fall in love with Ostuni.
And if you’d like to explore which part of Puglia is calling your name—checkout my Complete Guide here.
