Puglia Day 2: Polignano a Mare

Best travel guide to Polignano a Mare, Puglia | discover dramatic seaside cliffs, coastal charm, and southern Italy highlights.

Sea Urchins, Sailing Caves, and Sunset Cliffs—A Love Story with Polignano a Mare

On my second day exploring Puglia, I made my way to the iconic Polignano a Mare—just a short, scenic 15-minute drive from Monopoli. Yes, it’s a well-loved, often-visited destination, but believe me: it lives up to the hype, and then some.

Before I get carried away telling you about the magical sailing trip I did with the lovely folks at PugliaMare (highly recommend!), let me set the scene. Polignano a Mare is a postcard-perfect town perched on the limestone cliffs of Puglia’s Adriatic coast, about 35 km south of Bari. With its dramatic coastline, deep turquoise waters, and historic old town, it’s no wonder this little gem is one of southern Italy’s most visited, and most adored, spots.

Though popular, Polignano somehow still retains its soul. Its whitewashed buildings, ancient Roman bridge, and hidden swimming coves offer a perfect mix of adventure, charm, and unexpected moments of magic. Whether you're visiting for a day or staying a while, the town has a way of sneaking into your heart—and staying there.

Top Puglia travel guide to Polignano a Mare, Italy | explore whitewashed old town streets and crystal-clear Adriatic waters.

A Family Heirloom (of the sea)

I meandered along the coastal road in my little rental car, windows down, salt in the air, and parked at a lot right on the cliff’s edge overlooking the Adriatic Sea. The walk to the water was rocky and sun-soaked—just the way I like it. Down at the harbour, a few (iconic to the south) weathered blue boats bobbed in the tide. Fishermen chatted in the shade, and locals took early morning dips in the crystalline shallows.

Then… came the cats. A whole gang of them. I couldn’t help but try my broken Italian on them: “Ciao, bellissimi!”—hoping for a cuddle. They weren’t interested, but I respected their independence.

As I wandered toward the dock to wait for my boat, I noticed a group of fishermen sorting through buckets of fresh sea urchins. “Monello?” I asked, quite confidently—and quite wrongly. (That means rascal, not sea urchin.

The word for sea urchin in Italian is actually “Ricci e “Ricci Di Mare - thanks Babbel!) Still, in the way that only true Italian hospitality could translate, one of the men grinned, cracked an urchin in half, and lovingly shoved it toward me with a proud, “Prego!” gesture. Lacking any ocean-side sea urchin etiquette, I curiously attempted to enjoy this spiny creature and was blown away by the salty, briny sweetness of this ocean delight.

I later learned that this fisherman had been diving for sea urchins for generations—and in that moment, I felt like I’d been handed a family heirloom. 

Fresh sea urchins by the Adriatic Sea in Puglia, Italy | top travel guide to coastal cuisine and authentic Italian experiences.

Sea Caves & Sunlight

Just then, a sun-bronzed Italian appeared out of nowhere with a “Ciao bella, Buongiorno,” and for a brief moment, my knees betrayed me. Regaining composure, I introduced myself in my best Italian and boarded the yacht (ok, fine it was a small boat and it was just three of us!)

Our guide was warm and charismatic, and somewhere along the ride, he let me take the helm (luckily, I have my boating license from Canada, so I knew what the hell I was doing).

We glided along the jagged cliffs, slipping into sea caves carved by centuries of tides. One of the most famous is the Grotta Palazzese, which now houses a restaurant perched within the limestone—possibly one of the most romantic dining spots on Earth. Another cave, aptly named the Lover’s Cave, features a natural heart-shaped hole in the ceiling where sunlight spills through and reflects heart silhouettes on the water at just the right time of day.

After the sailing tour, I was greeted by one of the kind owners of PugliaMare, Cristian, who took me on a private walk through the town—Campari spritz in hand, of course. We popped into Malidea, the cutest bar on the outskirts of town, owned by my wedding planner’s husband, whete we were offered cocktails to stroll along the Lama Monachile—the legendary cliff diving spot that hosts the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series each year.

For a little context: Polignano has become world-famous for its dramatic cliffs and turquoise waters, making it a natural choice for this high-adrenaline event. The town has hosted Red Bull divers since 2009, drawing global athletes who leap from heights of over 27 meters (88 feet) into the sea below—right in front of cheering crowds gathered on every balcony, bridge, and rooftop. I’m pretty sure my parents witnessed this, although I doubt my father sported a pair of budgie smugglers to show those athletes how it was really done!)

Polignano a Mare coastal town in Puglia, Italy | southern Italy travel blog and curated Puglia itinerary.

More Discoveries…

While you’re wandering through town, make a stop at the Monumento a Domenico Modugno—a tribute to one of Italy’s most beloved singers, and a Polignano native. He’s best known for “Volare (Nel Blu Dipinto di Blu),” a song that’s practically in Italy’s DNA.

The statue, arms wide open, gazes out to sea and is hard to miss. If you’re lucky, you might even hear his music playing from hidden speakers around the town. Once you know who he is, you’ll start spotting references to him everywhere—murals, lyrics, and tributes woven into the town's identity. I just LOVED this!

After my walkabout, I treated myself to a solo lunch at Morus Ristorante, served by the amazing Angelo, where I completely spoiled myself—Prosecco in hand, a plate of fresh Orecchiette ai frutti di mare con crumble al peperoncino, handmade bread, and local olive oil. The kind of lunch that makes you audibly sigh with happiness.

And, just when I thought the day couldn’t possibly get better, I was invited to try something I’d been eyeing all over town—an Ape Calessino. These iconic three-wheeled vehicles (technically powered by a zippy four-stroke engine these days, though originally known for their classic two-stroke Piaggio putter) are a staple of southern Italy’s coastal charm. Half scooter, half miniature truck, and full character.

Lucy Randle riding in an Ape Calessino through the streets of Puglia, Italy | best travel guide to authentic Italian experiences.

I got to hop into the driver’s seat and take one for a spin—looping around a parking lot and confidently cruising through a roundabout like I was born and raised behind the wheel of this tiny Italian chariot. For a brief moment, I felt like a full-blown Polignano tour guide, (or James Bond) wind in my hair, laughter in my throat, and not a single care in the world.

A quick dip in the Adriatic later, I sat at the cliff beside my car, barefoot, damp from the sea, watching one of the most unforgettable sunsets of my life.

Lucy Randle standing in front of a historic statue in Italy | top travel guide to cultural landmarks and authentic European experiences.
Top Puglia travel guide to Polignano a Mare, Italy | explore whitewashed old town streets and crystal-clear Adriatic waters.

Polignano—A Place of Love

In that moment, I realized something: whether or not the wedding went ahead, I already knew this place had soul. And heart. Because everywhere I went, I found love—not just in people, but in the land, the sea, the food, and the silence. This place gave me that.

Eventually, I made my way back to Masseria Santa Teresa, where I was staying, and sat down for what turned out to be one of the most unexpectedly meaningful dinners of the trip. Dining alone, I worked up the courage to offer some of my antipasti—bad Italian and all—to a local man, Antonio, who was also dining solo.

We ended up joining tables and shared an evening of half-English, half-Italian conversation that made absolutely no sense, yet somehow said everything. It reminded me that human connection isn’t always about words—it’s about generosity, food, laughter, and being open to the moment.

I went to sleep that night with a belly full of more than just fresh seafood—I was full of joy, new memories, and an overwhelming sense of being right where I was meant to be. 


Key Takeaways & Travel Tips:

  • Only in Italy can you wander the streets with a beautifully made cocktail in a takeout cup. Stop by Malidea for something delicious and pair it with a gelato from Cafeteria Gelateria for the ultimate double-fist stroll.

  • Grotta Piana at Lama Monachile is the famous, postcard-worthy beach—but it gets ridiculously busy. If you’re set on swimming there, do a little research and plan ahead. Otherwise, I recommend the stunning Grotta Azzurra. Seriously, I can feel the cool, salty water on my skin just thinking about it.

  • Photograph Ponte Borbonico su Lama Monachile—from above and below. This Roman bridge offers views straight out of a dream. Look down onto Lama Monachile beach or head underneath for that dramatic cliff-and-arch shot that fills Instagram feeds for good reason.

  • Start your morning at Cala Paguro. If you’re lucky, you’ll bump into Vito, the local fisherman, and you’ll be even luckier if he offers you a sea urchin fresh from the sea to try. (Bonus points if you attempt some Italian and smile like you mean it.) If you miss him, climb the stairs to Pescheria Da Pasqualino Il Re del Polpo Bari and snack curbside on just-caught seafood as truck deliveries rumble by. Raw, real, and unmistakably Southern Italian. 

  • Stop by Maripa Italy on Via San Benedetto, 26. Discover Maria Rita Pavone’s shimmering, sea-inspired jewelry—each piece handmade, and each one a tiny memory of Polignano you can take with you.

  • See the town from the sea—it’s non-negotiable. Trust me. From the water, the town reveals itself in a whole new way: buildings clinging to cliffs, cascading into the sea like a painting brought to life. I was lucky to experience it on both a boat tour and a private yacht, and each time, it took my breath away.

  • Visit the Red Bull Cliff Diving spot (or just imagine it). Every June, daredevils dive from 21 to 27 meters into Lama Monachile’s blue bay as part of the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series. Even outside the event, standing at the edge is enough to make your heart race.

  • Catch the sunset at Grotta Delle Rondinelle. Park yourself on a cliff and watch the sky perform. I saw the sun melt below the horizon here—and yes, I cried. Don’t miss it.

  • Wave to Domenico Modugno. Take a moment at the bronze statue of Polignano’s most famous son, arms outstretched as if still singing “Volare” into the wind. His spirit is everywhere.


Lucy’s Little Luxuries in Polignano

  1. Book dinner at Grotta Palazzese. Yes, it’s touristy—but how often do you get to dine inside a limestone cave carved into a seaside cliff? It’s dramatic. It’s romantic. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime kind of dinner.

  2. Dine wild at Morus Ristorante. This is where I splurged. A glass (okay, two) of local Prosecco, handmade bread, and fresh orecchiette with prawns and clams caught that very morning. Go for the seafood, stay for the vibes—and, please, send my love to Angelo. Prego!

  3. Double-fist it: Malidea cocktail + Cafeteria Gelateria’s gelato. A cocktail in one hand, a gelato in the other, and the Adriatic breeze in your hair. You are exactly where you're meant to be.

And if you’d like to explore which part of Puglia is calling your name—checkout my Complete Guide here.

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Puglia Day 1: Monopoli