Ireland: Day 3
Kinsale, Forts, Fish & Baby Guinness
After a blustery night in Doolin (honestly thought the house might take flight), I was up early, bleary-eyed and windblown, and hit the road. The morning drive was full Irish: rain going sideways, roads narrower than a back alley in Amalfi, and the kind of wind that makes you question your life choices.
First stop: Poulnabrone Dolmen—a 5,000-year-old Neolithic portal tomb standing like a gateway to another world. A quick nod to the ancients, and then I was back on the road toward the south.
I made a pitstop in Ennis for breakfast and a quick break before rolling into the colourful coastal town of Kinsale—and wow, what a vibe. The buildings here are practically dancing in every colour of the rainbow, and the people? Just as vibrant.
I wandered into a leather shop owned by Mike and Sarah, who couldn’t have been more welcoming. Mike gave me the lay of the land and sent me on my way up Scilly Walk (yes, that’s its real name) toward Charles Fort. I stopped halfway at The Bullman for a cider and then treated myself to Shirley’s food truck for—hands down—the freshest fish and chips of the trip, with a seaside view of the fort to boot.
Charles Fort is a 17th-century star-shaped military fortress built during the reign of King Charles II. It’s steeped in history and tragedy, including the legend of the White Lady of Kinsale, a ghost said to wander the ramparts in search of her lost love. Wandering through its ruins, with the sea shimmering beside it, I couldn’t help but feel the layers of history underfoot.
On the way back, I ducked into The Spaniard, a classic Irish pub with cozy charm and an even cozier Baby Guinness—that delightful little version of Guinness that lets you enjoy it without leaving a glass half empty. (Fun fact: a Baby Guinness is actually coffee liqueur + Irish cream combo that looks like a mini pint yet despite the name, there’s no Guinness in it… but at this point, I’m finally starting to get the appeal of the real thing and now can’t stop thinking about it. Guinness really does taste better here.)
There I met Terrence, a Californian-Irish guy who inherited his dad’s Irish farmland and now leases it out to dairy farmers with his brothers and uncle. These kinds of conversations are what I love most about travel—random, real, and full of unexpected connections.
After strolling back to town and soaking in the late afternoon sun, I drove on to Cork. And wow… Cork is a bit of a shock to the system after the slow, sleepy warmth of Doolin and Kinsale. But my hotel, The Kingsley, is all luxe, and I’m not complaining. After 20,000+ steps, my pants feel tight, my stomach’s protesting, and I’m bone-tired. Tomorrow, is the full day workshop and I am looking forward to that as well as just a nice night in at the hotel and no galavanting across the country.
Highlights of the day?
Mike and Sarah, the leather artisans
A sunshine walk and an actual Guinness enjoyed in the sun
Sea views, star forts, and a little Bulmers.
A dog called Scully came and sat on my fish and chips and then pawed at me and licked my face.
Key Takeaways & Travel Tips from Kinsale:
Embrace the chaos: Irish weather is no joke—pack waterproof everything and stay flexible. The sideways rain makes the sunny moments even sweeter.
Don’t skip the ancient sites: Poulnabrone Dolmen is a quick but powerful stop. Perfect for connecting with Ireland’s Neolithic roots.
Kinsale is a must-visit: This rainbow-splashed coastal town is packed with charm, from artisan leather shops to seaside food trucks and scenic walks like the Scilly Walk.
Fuel up with local flavour: Don’t miss Shirley’s food truck (incredible fish & chips), a pint or Baby Guinness at The Spaniard, and a cider stop at The Bullman with a sea view.
Add history to your hike: Charles Fort offers coastal views, ghost legends, and layers of 17th-century history, all just a walk away from town.
Let the magic of conversation guide you: From pub chats to seaside encounters, travel is made richer through the people you meet (including dogs named Scully who love fish and chips just as much as you do).
