Ireland: Day 2
Cliffs, Seaweed & Stories – Foolin’ in Doolin and Doolin Delights
After a deep and desperately needed sleep in my quiet Kinvara countryside Airbnb, I hit the road early, stopping at Sian Café in town for what can only be described as a banging breakfast. (No notes. Just go there.)
My plan for the day was to hike the Cliffs of Moher solo—but something in me, maybe the jet lag or sheer intuition, nudged me to find a guide. So, with one eye half open the night before, I booked a tour with Ollie’s Tours—and honestly? Best decision I could’ve made.
Having someone else lead the way through Ireland’s wild weather and wilder landscapes was a gift. It turned what could’ve been a foggy, windswept stumble into a rich, meaningful, and memorable day. A friendly PSA: if you’re like me and love figuring things out on your own, consider a guide now and then—it can make all the difference.
We were lucky enough to start at the top of the cliffs and hike down, with the wind literally at our backs—like a living, breathing Irish blessing:
“May the road rise to meet you. May the wind be always at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face…”
(Still waiting on the sun, but it’s coming, I can feel it.)
The Cliffs of Moher were spectacular. Towering stone, dramatic skies, and teeming with life—I learned they’re a UNESCO Global Geopark, home to tens of thousands of seabirds who migrate here for the winter months.
Highlight of the day? Meeting Pat Sweeney, the trail builder and local legend. He’s been with the Cliffs of Moher Coastal Walk project since its early days in 2007. Not only did he help negotiate access across 39 different farms, but he also got the landowners involved in helping build parts of the trail. Now that’s Irish diplomacy.
After the hike, we ended (where else?) at O’Connor’s Pub, where I had a warming bowl of Irish stew and a well-earned pint of Guinness—this time, fully committed. And finished.
Then it was back to the Airbnb for a quick rest before heading to the Doolin Pier for one of the most unique experiences I’ve ever had: a Wild Atlantic Seaweed Bath, perched right on the ocean’s edge.
Imagine this: a hot cedar tub, seaweed hauled fresh from the Atlantic by a charming Irishman, and the crashing waves as your spa soundtrack. A little bizarre, totally beautiful, deeply relaxing—and very Doolin. Would do again in a heartbeat.
Later, I wandered along the beach to explore the area’s unique geology. The limestone rock formations here are part of the Burren, shaped over 300 million years ago by ancient seas and glacial activity. The result? Strange, beautiful patterns of flat, geometric rock that feel otherworldly.
For dinner, I circled back to Gus O’Connor’s Pub for fish and chips, a cider, and a dose of live traditional Irish music. Fun fact: Gus O’Connor’s has been a cornerstone of the Irish music scene since the 1960s, hosting legendary sessions that have drawn musicians from around the country—and the world.
I squeezed in a quick sunset drive up to Ballinalacken Castle for a peek before dark, then headed home to rest my legs and recharge.
Tomorrow, I make the long drive to Kinsale, then onward to Cork. If today’s anything to go by, the journey is going to be just as rich as the destination. Goodnight!
Key Takeaways & Travel Tips from Kinvara to the Cliffs of Moher
Trust your gut (and the guides): Booking a last-minute hike with Ollie’s Tours turned a solo plan into a day full of depth, storytelling, and local magic. Even the most independent travellers can benefit from a good guide.
Hike smart, not hard: Starting at the top of the Cliffs of Moher and hiking down (with the wind at your back) is the way to go. It’s scenic, spiritual, and a little less strenuous.
Learn from the locals: Meeting Pat Sweeney (the legend behind the Cliffs of Moher trail) was a powerful reminder of how community shapes the land and the stories we walk on.
Say yes to seaweed: The Wild Atlantic Seaweed Bath at Doolin Pier is weird and wonderful in the best way. Hot cedar tubs, crashing waves, and mineral-rich Atlantic seaweed = next-level relaxation.
Walk the Burren: Take time to explore Doolin’s beachside limestone formations. This ancient, geometric geology feels like walking on another planet.
End the day with music & comfort food: Gus O’Connor’s Pub is more than a meal, it’s an institution. Come for the fish and chips, stay for the cider and live traditional music.
