Ireland: Day 5
Whiskey, Castles & Country Charm
After another restless night (standard programming for me), I was up and at it. The buffet breakfast offered black pudding, but once I heard what it was made from, I opted for my dad Michael Randle’s go-to: muesli, yogurt, and a couple of prunes.
Clíodhna, a cheeky troll I was gifted at yesterday’s seminar, rode shotgun as Sinead and I left Cork and headed east to Midleton.
I was especially excited for the Midleton Distillery Experience, home of my favorite whiskey: Midleton Very Rare. The tour did not disappoint. I learned that Irish whiskey must legally age in oak barrels for a minimum of three years—or as the locals say, tree years. The longer it ages, the smoother and more complex it becomes—and more expensive, thanks in part to something called the angel’s share, where about 2% of the whiskey evaporates each year. Imagine millions of litres quietly disappearing into thin air!
The scale of production is massive: 160+ maturation warehouses, more than 2.2 million casks on site. The aromas of aging spirit and charred oak were unreal. We sampled some Redbreast and got a peek at one of the €60,000 bottles of Midleton Very Rare Silent Collection (don’t worry, I left it for the next guy). Pete and Rod, you were definitely there in spirit—literally.
Next, we drove to Kilkenny. We explored the impressive Kilkenny Castle, strolled up Butter Slip, and stopped for a hearty cottage pie and a Guinness at Lanigan’s. But the Sunday crowds were intense, so I made a beeline for the countryside.
Our next stop was Duckett’s Grove, a fairytale Gothic ruin with meticulously restored gardens. Built in the 1800s, it was once the heart of a 12,000-acre estate. Wandering through, I imagined myself in another era—wide-brimmed hat, parasol, hounds in tow, scones on silver trays.
On the way out, I met Paul, a local from Tullow, who uses antique Grubb lenses and large format cameras—the kind where you duck under a black sheet—and develops photos right there in the castle. It felt like time had folded in on itself.
Finally, I arrived at my countryside retreat: a lovingly restored former milking barn on a family estate that’s been Italian-Irish owned for over 300 years. With vaulted timber ceilings, stone walls, a terracotta-toned kitchen, and olive trees in terracotta pots, it felt more like Tuscany than Tullow. My host, Andrew, was a gem—full of stories and recommendations. The peace and quiet were a balm to my overstimulated soul.
Dinner was a tapas feast and a glass of wine at Mimosa in Carlow town, and then back to the barn for a luxurious evening of nothing but silence and stillness.
Key Takeaways & Travel Tips from Midleton to Carlow:
Skip the black pudding (or don’t): Irish breakfasts can be…adventurous. If you’re unsure, channel a family favorite—muesli, yogurt, and prunes hit the spot without the drama.
Make time for Midleton: The Midleton Distillery Experience is a whiskey lover’s dream. Massive scale, rich aroma, fascinating history (hello, angel’s share), and a peek at bottles you’ll never afford but will always remember.
Wander Kilkenny, then escape it: The castle is grand and the Butter Slip charming, but if the crowds overwhelm you, retreat into the countryside for a deeper breath of Ireland.
Visit Duckett’s Grove: This Gothic ruin with manicured gardens is straight out of a storybook. Keep your eyes open and you might just meet someone like Paul, who captures the past on antique cameras in real time.
Book a soulful stay: A converted barn in Tullow with Tuscan vibes? Yes, please. Rustic charm, quiet luxury, and warm hosts make all the difference after a full day of exploring.
Wind down intentionally: Tapas and wine at Mimosa in Carlow is the perfect exhale. Follow it with silence and stillness. It’s the kind of rest travel dreams are made of.
