A Love Letter to Puglia: Italy’s Most Alluring Region
A delightful afternoon swimming at Polignano A Mare
Leave your watch at home. Pack linen, curiosity, and an open heart. Puglia will take care of the rest.
This southern Italian region — the heel of the boot — embodies a different kind of Italy. Rich with the spirit of its people, the flavours of its food, and the authenticity of its culture, Puglia moves to its own rhythm: long, lazy lunches under fig trees, sun-bleached afternoons that melt into golden hour, and olive groves that stretch toward forever.
It’s not just a place you visit. Puglia is a place you feel.
Polignano a Mare: Where Land Meets the Sea
Perched high above electric-blue waters, Polignano a Mare is one of the most photogenic towns in Puglia. Whitewashed buildings cling to the cliffs, while locals linger over aperitivi like it’s an art form.
Eat: For seafood, book a table at Morus Ristorante — let the staff guide you to what’s freshest.
Drink: Grab a Campari Spritz from Café Malidea and wander cobblestone streets.
Do: Join the cliff divers (or watch them) at Cala Porto’s pebbled cove.
Matera: Mystical and Otherworldly
Few places feel as cinematic as Matera, a city carved from stone. Its cave dwellings (sassi) have been continuously inhabited for millennia.
Stay: Sassi Hotel, where dawn light spills over the honeycomb landscape like liquid gold.
Sip: Negronis at Zipa Café, set inside the rock itself.
Explore: Bring sneakers — the winding labyrinths rival Morocco’s medinas.
Ostuni: The White City
Rising like a mirage above the olive groves, Ostuni is a dazzling mix of Greek soul and Italian flair.
Eat: Il Posto Affianco — dining that feels like a secret.
Drink: Sunset cocktails at Bar Perso.
Wander: The Arco Scoppa and winding stone alleyways where even the cats seem unhurried.
Lecce: Baroque Beauty Without the Ego
Known as the Florence of the South, Lecce dazzles with golden limestone façades and dramatic baroque churches.
Eat: Salt-baked fish at Palazzo Ducale Venturi.
Discover: Artisan workshops where cartapesta (paper-mâché) comes alive.
Stay: Restored palazzi turned boutique hotels.
Photo by Marilisa Spinazzola
Alberobello & The Itria Valley: Whimsical Architecture
The fairytale trulli houses of Alberobello are UNESCO-protected and unlike anywhere else in the world. Simple, striking, and steeped in history, they’re a reminder that beauty often lies in understatement.
Eat: Try local specialties like bombette (little meat rolls cooked over coals) at a family-run trattoria, or sip wine surrounded by vineyards at Cantina Albea.
Discover: Wander among Alberobello’s UNESCO-protected trulli and explore nearby towns like Locorotondo and Cisternino — both known for whitewashed streets and panoramic views.
Stay: Spend the night in a restored trullo for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, or choose a masseria stay (fortified farmhouse) in the countryside, where olive groves and stone walls set the scene.
Fasano & Otranto: Coastal Chic Meets Authentic Soul
In Fasano, Puglia shows off its polished side — think design-forward resorts, elegant masserie, and curated coastal escapes. Meanwhile, Otranto, perched at Italy’s easternmost edge, keeps its soul raw and authentic: medieval streets, crystalline water, and the feeling that time lingers a little longer here. Together, they capture the dual spirit of Puglia — refined yet real.
Stay: For barefoot luxury, Borgo Egnazia near Fasano blends tradition with design.
Swim: Crystal waters at Lido Ottagono, near Otranto.
Sail: Board a boat with Michel of Enea Boat Experience — complete with homemade food, hidden caves, and family stories.
Monopoli & Bari: The Pulse of Puglia
A tale of two coastal cities — Monopoli, with its old-world charm and seaside spirit, and Bari, the gritty-yet-graceful capital. Together, they pulse with the rhythm of real Puglia.
Eat: Start your day in Monopoli with a cappuccino and cornetto at Dolce Amaro Café (say Ciao to Gianni). For dinner, linger over wood-fired pizza and wine at Porto Rosso by the water’s edge. For great food, cocktails and a fun vibe - check out Sottocoperta. In Bari, don’t miss focaccia barese — oily, salty, studded with cherry tomatoes — or orecchiette hand-rolled by nonne in the old town.
Discover: In Monopoli, wander the old port, stroll along the sea walls, and watch fishermen mend their nets. In Bari, join the evening promenade on the lungomare, visit the austere yet moving Basilica di San Nicola, and lose yourself in the labyrinth of Bari Vecchia.
Stay: In Monopoli, opt for a boutique hotel or B&B tucked inside the historic centers’ stone alleyways. I love Donna Caterina Luxury Stay and Spa. For a unique stay, try a traditional fortified farmhouse or ‘masserie’, try Masseria Santa Teresa. You wont be disappointed. In Bari, choose a modern stay near the seafront for easy access to both the old town and transport links.
The Essence of Puglia: Slow, Sensual, Soulful
Start your morning with a pasticciotto pastry and espresso. Browse open-air markets fragrant with herbs and tomatoes. Swim in turquoise seas. Let the wind dry your hair.
Puglia doesn’t demand attention. It seduces it. With every passing ciao, every plate of handmade pasta, every glass of local wine, the region whispers: Stay a little longer.
Practical Travel Tips for Puglia
Rent a car: Public transport is limited.
Travel slow: Puglia is a feeling, not a checklist.
Go off-season: May, June, and September bring sunshine without the crowds.
Eat local: Focaccia in Bari, panzerotti in Lecce, sea urchins on the coast.